Corsets: the Great Comeback

A corset is one of the spiciest items of women’s wardrobe. These days, we are seeing lots of corsets and bustiers in fashion collections and street style. This clothing item has changed its construction, shape, function, and even social meaning many times.

For example, in the 17^th century, corsets were used to shape the torso into a distinctive silhouette. It had a tapered shape and was meant to serve as a base for heavy jewel decorations.

Unknown Artist
Isabella Bourbon, Queen of Spain
1620

In the 18^th century, corsets were meant to create a visual contrast between a straight torso and a voluminous skirt of the dress. Additionally, it helped to evenly distribute the weight of the skirt on the torso and shoulders. The popular corsets had a cylinder shape.

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Charles-André van Loo
Marie Leszczinska, Queen of France
1747, Versailles

In the mid-19^th century, corsets took the shape we know today. Dress designs changed whereas the waist became narrower than ever. By the end of the century, the corsets looked the most controversial, which made doctors and society protest against wearing them.

Franz Xaver Winterhalter
Louise, Queen of the Belgians
1844

Although we can see tightlacing being ridiculed even in 18^th-century caricatures, the movement against wearing corsets started in the late 1800s. Women’s rights activists were outspoken against figure-altering corsets as they viewed them to be the patriarchal instrument of torture and power over women. Unfortunately, doctors’ concerns and dress reform advocates failed to affect fashion significantly – most women continued to wear corsets.

John Collet
Tight lacing, or Fashion before ease
1770–1775

Women stopped wearing corsets and switched to bras during World War I as the time forced them to ditch traditional women’s roles and work in the war industry. However, corsets did make a comeback with Dior’s “New Look”, inspired by the old fashion aesthetics.

The legendary Bar jacket by Christian Dior
1947

In modern times, corsets ended up having a completely different meaning and value. First heavily featured in Vivienne Westwood FW 1987/88 collection, corsets were no longer seen as underwear – the corset was an independent clothing item meant to be worn on its own or layered over other clothes. In the 1990s, corsets became a symbol of women’s sex appeal, liberation, and power.

Vivienne Westwood runway show
1990

Pop divas like Madonna and Taylor Swift use corsets as their stage costumes to create a powerful and sexy image.

Madonna wearing the iconic corset by Jean Paul Gautier

1991

Taylor Swift during “The Eras Tour”

Modern styling and interpretations

Corsets are associated with wedding and evening fashion, but these days designers like to introduce corset-inspired garments in casual and even athletic wear.

A corset can be a part of a dress or blouse. Its stiffened structure allows the wearer to create the desired silhouette.

Corset and bustier tops worn on their own look stunning in feminine and sexy outfits.

Meanwhile, they also look amazing when paired with contrasting jeans, trousers, and even joggers.

Combining volumes in one look is a popular styling method: highlight your graceful torso hugged by a corset with a pair of baggy cargo pants.

You can always wear an oversized shirt, blazer, or cardigan to cover your shoulders and back, thus making the look less steamy.

A corset looks beautiful worn over shirts, dresses, blazers, and even coats. If you’re willing to try the style, choose a stiff, structured corset made of dense fabric.

Corsets without cups are easy to use as a top layer as they accentuate the waist and don’t require any fitting at the bust. Again, the trick is to create a noticeable volume difference, so choose voluminous top garments and wide skirts/trousers.

A lingerie-inspired bustier top is always a good idea for an evening look, although it can be a part of a casual outfit.

Hope you feel inspired! There are lots of corsets sewing patterns available at Sewing Partner! Go to the Corsets and Bustiers section and choose the design you like.